"Welcome to Five Senses Coffee"

Mount Elimbari, the highest mountain in the Chauve region of Simbu, is very significant to Five Senses. It was here that we purchased our very first bag of coffee, but most importantly, it represents the strong and growing relationship we have always had with PNG coffees.

Jerry Kapka, mill owner and local exporter, recently made his second visit to Western Australia to share with us firsthand the passion, dedication and stories behind one of our most well known coffees, PNG Elimbari.

Papua New Guinea differs from many other coffee growing regions. The majority of its producers are small holders, most of whom have only five to 10 trees among their ‘coffee gardens’. While this seems like a small amount, coffee is only one of many sources of income for each of these families.

Elimbari coffee, in particular, is 100% small holder produced. This has its challenges, but also provides a unique opportunity to set high standards of quality. Instead of having a handful of people maintaining large estates with pesticides and chemicals and mass harvesting, each small holder can easily care for their small coffee garden organically.

Jerry often mentioned that the quality exists on the tree; they have excellent growing conditions, altitude and varietals (Bourbon, Typica and Arusha). In order to make sure this quality gets to his mill and then to us, Jerry focuses heavily on farmer education, about both harvesting and processing. He gives the local farmers specific guidelines about how to get the most out of their crop so that they can successfully sell it as Elimbari coffee.

Jerry’s mill purchases all coffee from his local region, whatever the quality. However, if the coffee passes the quality control standards that Jerry has set, it is graded as Elimbari coffee and a premium price is paid. In fact, the price paid for Elimbari is the highest for any coffee in PNG. The remainder of the coffee is sold internationally as a lower grade coffee and is not called Elimbari, even if it’s from that region. That way, the integrity of the Elimbari name is protected, so that it continues to be associated with the highest quality. This is good for the local community, the farmers, Jerry and us.

The guidelines go like this… Firstly, Jerry discourages the use of chemicals and teaches farmers how to use grass knives and spades to control weeds. Picking fully ripe cherries is a must; definitely no over-ripes, and any under-ripes should be left on the tree for the next picking. Pulping should happen within six hours of picking. Most farmers have small hand operated pulpers in their coffee gardens. Jerry encourages farmers to use clean water and to set up their pulpers close to a stream or running water, where it makes sense for ease of use.

Once pulped, the coffee is put into fermentation boxes. These aren’t quite the tanks we are used to for larger volumes! The coffee is fermented (without water) for 36 – 48 hours. Jerry explains that the lengthy fermentation time has a lot to do with the colder temperature in the highlands. When the bean is no longer slippery and slick and becomes rough and dry, as the mucilage breaks away, the fermentation is complete. The coffee should then be washed at least twice with clean, running water. The harvest then spends its first day drying on wire screens to allow the excess water to drain off. The following day, it’s transferred to raised canvas beds, where it’s continually turned to achieve even drying. The result is dried coffee in parchment, which is sent to Jerry’s mill, where they assess moisture, colour and quality before giving it the premium Elimbari price and name.

When Jerry speaks about Elimbari coffee, he has a strong sense of pride in the quality of the relationships he has with his local community and people. With direct price incentives that go straight to the farmer, Jerry is ensuring that their coffee continually meets high specialty standards and gets the recognition it deserves. “Quality matters,” Jerry explains. “Consumers have the right to know quality.”